Encounter with the winemaker I: Jade Gross
What illuminated mind would weave together Hong Kong, New York, Paris, Girona, San Sebastián, and finally San Vicente de la Sonsierra (Rioja) into a single story?
Likely very few, if any. But as reality often surpasses fiction, this is none other than the journey of the protagonist of this first edition of the newsletter From El Calao
With immense pleasure, I am delighted to introduce you to Jade Gross. Born in Hong Kong, her life has been a constant rebound between political science, human rights, the kitchens of prestigious restaurants, and finally, the vineyards. We could easily dedicate three more entries to her life story, but I believe the true magic lies in the details.
The first of these details is her childhood in Hong Kong, where, among many other things, she dedicated part of her time to piano and ballet. These two disciplines are a staple in the education of many young people raised in Hong Kong—not by whim, but because they are seen as activities that instill key values: discipline, meticulousness, and relentless effort.
After her studies in the social sciences, Jade decided to change course and began working in some of Europe’s most prestigious kitchens. The last two: Celler de Can Roca and Mugaritz, where she reached leadership positions in the latter. It was there, steeped in the creativity that Mugaritz breathes, that she had the fleeting idea to experiment with winemaking. As if fate itself intervened, she crossed paths with Abel Mendoza and his wife, Maite Fernández—craftsmen behind some of Rioja’s finest white wines, whom we will discuss in a future entry. Thus, Jade began making wine under their mentorship, and the rest is history.
Jade owns a few vineyard plots and leases others between the villages of San Vicente de la Sonsierra and Labastida. She has been crafting her wines since 2019. Despite not having a vast amount of vineyard land, her portfolio is remarkably extensive, totaling around eight references, with Time is on my side being the latest addition.
And here’s where the magic unfolds. Tasting with Jade feels like unraveling her life story, chapter by chapter. I mentioned she grew up between piano and ballet lessons. It’s no coincidence that her first wine is called Piano Piano (which also means “slowly, slowly” in Italian). The story doesn’t end there: La Jabalina, her rosé, features a label depicting a female wild boar dancing ballet. Peace and Love perhaps connects to her studies in international law, and her only white wine, Chiquita, references the nickname she was given upon arriving in San Vicente. An entire life distilled into wine labels—marvelous.
What can I say about her wines? Despite her relatively short journey, Jade has an uncanny ability to grasp the essence of each plot and grape variety, allowing them to shine. All her wines are fluid, with wonderful freshness and oak that seeks not to mask but to round out the magnificent fruit she meticulously cultivates. You only need to meet her to know she works in an orderly, clean, and precise manner. Without resorting to “eco-bio-natural” labels, she demonstrates a respect for the land that leaves even the locals speechless. Tempranillos, Garnachas, Viuras—all her wines are different, yet they share a common thread: kindness.
Jade is now part of the group of independent winemakers we visit from El Calao.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this first glimpse From the Cellar. The renovation work begins soon—specifically, on May 4th.
I’ll keep you updated.
Sincerely,
